Cichlid Care Guide

Top Shelf Animals - African Cichlid Care Guide

Welcome to Top Shelf Animals! We specialize in high-quality African cichlids, primarily Haps and Peacocks from Lake Malawi. This guide provides essential information to help you maintain a healthy and thriving cichlid aquarium.


Water Parameters - Malawi Cichlids

  • pH: 7.8 - 8.3 (higher pH promotes better colour and health)
  • Hardness (GH): 10-20 GH (Maintaining a GH of 10-20 helps stabilize osmoregulation in cichlids, reducing stress and enhancing coloration.)
  • Temperature: 74 - 82°F (ideal range: 76 - 79°F, stable temperature is key)
  • In a healthy tank, Amonnia and Nitrite should be 0 (the only time you want these present is when cycling)
  • Nitrates should be under 30 ppm. The lower the better. This is achieved by large water changes (average 35-50% weekly depending on the tank)


Tank Size & Setup

  • Ensure proper oxygenation with surface agitation from filters, air stones, or powerheads. This is especially important for heavily stocked tanks.
  • Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons (preferably 75 gallons for best results. Stocking is limited in smaller tanks)
  • Substrate: Sand-based substrates are preferred (we recommend CaribSea cichlid sand)
  • Filtration: Heavy filtration is required. We recommend:
  • Sponge Filters (for biofiltration)
  • Hang-On-Back Filters (Seachem Tidal recommended)
  • Canister Filters (for larger tanks Oase Biomaster, Eheim, Fluval FX series)
  • Sumps (for large tanks), Also increases water volume, which is a huge benefit.)
  • Decor: Rockwork depends on species:
  • Mbuna: Dense rock structures for hiding and territories
  • Peacocks & Haps: Minimal rockwork, open swimming space
  • Heater: Maintain stable water temperature (76 - 79°F ideal)
  • Lighting: Choose a high-quality, adjustable light to enhance fish coloration. We prefer adjustable lighting (We recommend not leaving the tank light on all day. If you're away from the tank during the day for work, keep the lights off. Ambient light is enough for the fish. Helps with algae ).
  • Water Conditioner: Use every water change (Seachem Prime or equivalent recommended)
  • Bacterial Stabilizer: Use to balance levels (Used for new aquariums or after cleaning filters to re-establish bacteria colonies)


Understanding the Nitrogen Cycle & Tank Cycling

Before adding any fish, it is essential to fully cycle your tank to establish beneficial bacteria that break down harmful waste. This process mimics nature, where bacteria convert harmful fish waste into less toxic compounds.

Without cycling, your tank can experience ammonia spikes, which are toxic and can kill fish. A properly cycled tank ensures a stable and healthy environment, reducing stress on your fish and preventing common issues like "New Tank Syndrome."

Watch this video for a detailed explanation Click Here 

  • Ammonia (NH3): Comes from fish waste & uneaten food (toxic)
  • Nitrite (NO2): Bacteria convert ammonia into nitrite (toxic)
  • Nitrate (NO3): Nitrite converts to nitrate (safe in low amounts but should stay below 20-30 ppm)

Steps to Fully Cycle a Tank (Before Adding Fish)

  • Set up the tank with substrate, filtration, and a heater (if needed).
  • Add an ammonia source (fish food or pure ammonia). This helps bacteria develop by providing a food source.
  • Add bottled beneficial bacteria (Fritz 7 or Microbe-Lift Special Blend). This speeds up the cycling process by introducing live bacteria that break down waste.
  • Test the water regularly for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate using a liquid test kit.
  • Wait 4-6 weeks for the bacteria to fully establish. You will see an ammonia spike first, followed by nitrites, and then nitrates. The speed of the cycle can vary due to factors such as temperature, water quality, and bacterial growth.
  • Once ammonia & nitrite read 0 ppm and nitrates are present, the tank is cycled.
  • Perform a large water change (50%) before adding fish to lower nitrate levels back to safe levels.
  • Start with a light stock. Every time fish are added, bacteria need to grow to catch up. We suggest about 4-5 cichlids to start. Add More bacteria stabilizer after fish additions

This process ensures your fish enter a stable environment with minimal stress and the best possible conditions for long-term health. There are other ways to prepare the tank, but this method is the safest. If you choose to use alternative cycling methods (such as a fish-in cycle), please do thorough research beforehand. At Top Shelf Animals, we believe a fishless cycle is safer for the fish and provides more educational value for you as an aquarist. That's why we strongly recommend it in our care guide. For other aquarium setups—such as planted, community, or saltwater tanks—these recommendations may vary.

Diet & Feeding

Diet varies by species:

  • Haps & Peacocks: Omnivorous - primarily protein-based diet
  • Mbuna: Omnivorous but lean more herbivorous – include more algae content for better digestion and colour. Mbuna should not be fed excessive protein or fatty foods, as they can cause Malawi Bloat. A diet high in spirulina and vegetable matter is ideal.
  • Recommended Foods:
  • We suggest NorthFin and Dynarix foods (Both made by the same company)
  • Cichlid Pellets & Flakes (Krill-based and veggie-based.)
  • Feeding Schedule:
  • Once daily for adults (small feedings, adults should have occasional fasting days)
  • Juveniles: 2-3 times a day
  • Once a week: Fasting day for adult cichlids only
  • Larger fish should always be fed pellets as a primary diet. Flakes are more for young juvenile fish and a treat for adults

 

Adding New Fish

We recommend always quarantining new fish, even when buying from a reliable source like us, to ensure the health of your existing stock. Avoid housing cichlids with small, slow-moving, or delicate species that may struggle with their aggression.

Avoid sudden large additions of fish to prevent ammonia spikes. Gradual stocking allows beneficial bacteria to adjust to increased bioload.

Decide if you want to raise some juveniles or start with larger males. Most want an all-male show tank to show stunning colours and reduce aggression from breeding. 

  • Please allow the tank to cycle and have some bacteria colonies before adding any fish (see tank cycling section)
  • Acclimate new fish by floating bags for 20-30 minutes.
  • Use a net to transfer fish (never add store/bag water to your tank).
  • We suggest adding some bacteria stabilizer after adding fish (not required but very beneficial)
  • Turn off lights for the rest of the day for 24 hours to reduce stress.
  • Do not feed for the first 24 hours.


Maintenance Schedule

Weekly Maintenance: For Cycled and Established Aquariums 

  • Test water parameters (pH, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates)
  • **Perform a 30-50% water change, depending on tank size and stocking levels. Always use a water conditioner. For established tanks, testing nitrates before water changes will show how much water needs to be changed. The amount of water changes and size varies with the amount of fish and the tank size.
  • Clean algae from glass (avoid chemical cleaners. Use aquarium-safe pads and scapers)
  • Gravel vacuuming to remove debris and waste

Monthly Maintenance:

Always clean filter components in old tank water. Tap water can contain chlorine and other chemicals that will kill the good bacteria needed for waste breakdown.

  • Avoid replacing all filter media at once; rinse sponges and mechanical media in old tank water to preserve beneficial bacteria.
  • Bio media rarely needs to be replaced. Always gently clean (gently shake) in aquarium water separate from the tank. Never use tap water, as chlorine or chloramine will kill beneficial bacteria.
  • After filter cleaning it's suggested to add a bacteria stabilizer like Fritz 7 or Microbe-Lift Special blend


Beginner’s Tips for First-Time Cichlid Keepers

  • Start with a Larger Tank
  • A 75-gallon tank or larger is easier to maintain than a smaller one, as it provides more stable water parameters and reduces aggression.
  • Cycle Your Tank Before Adding Fish
  • Don’t rush! Ensure your tank is fully cycled before adding cichlids to avoid ammonia spikes that can kill fish. (See Understanding the Nitrogen Cycle section for details.)
  • If you choose to do a fish in cycle. Ensure you have a good test kit and equipment to monitor and change water as needed.
  • Choose Compatible Species
  • Stick to one lake (Malawi, Tanganyika, or Victoria) and don’t mix peaceful species with aggressive ones.
  • Mbuna needs more rockwork, while Haps and Peacocks prefer open swimming space.
  • Overstocking Helps Reduce Aggression
  • Unlike most fish, mild overstocking can actually help reduce aggression in African cichlid tanks by preventing a single dominant fish from bullying others.
  • However, monitor water quality closely and use strong filtration.
  • Feed the Right Diet
    • Mbuna need more plant-based foods (avoid excess protein & fatty foods).
    • Haps & Peacocks need more protein but avoid overfeeding to prevent bloating.
  • Don’t Use Tap Water Without a Conditioner. Always dechlorinate water before adding it to your tank to avoid killing beneficial bacteria.

 

  • TEST WATER! & Frequent water changes - Not changing enough water or monitoring levels is one of the top causes of fish death for new keepers. Ammonia nitrite and Nitrates can build up and lead to a fast death for newly added fish or greatly shorten lifespan (old tank syndrome)

 

  • Watch for Common Cichlid Diseases
    • Signs of Malawi Bloat: Swollen belly, loss of appetite, lethargy.
    • Signs of Ich: White spots on the body and fins.
    • Act fast with proper treatment if you notice any of these symptoms.
  • African cichlids develop their colours over time. Don’t worry if juveniles look dull at first!
  • Aggression will settle as the hierarchy stabilizes, but keep an eye out for excessive bullying.


Why Buy From Top Shelf Animals?

This is more than just a business—it's my passion. Every day, I’m excited to work with these stunning animals and share the experience with fellow hobbyists. I take pride in every aspect of this journey, from tank setup and filtration to providing the best diet and care possible.

At Top Shelf Animals, my top priority is the health and quality of every fish. I am fully dedicated to ensuring that every cichlid meets the highest standards. We only import from the best breeders and exporters to guarantee that our stock is truly TOP SHELF quality.

Why Choose Us?

  • Handpicked, High-Quality Stock: Every fish is carefully selected and monitored to ensure optimal health and coloration.
  • Expert Advice & Support: Whether you’re new to cichlids or an experienced keeper, we’re here to help with guidance every step of the way.
  • Trusted Products: We only recommend and sell products that we personally trust, such as NorthFin Foods, Fritz, Seachem, Microbe-Lift and more
  • Educational Resources & Community: We believe that knowledge is key, and we are dedicated to providing in-depth care guides, videos, and one-on-one support to help you succeed.

My goal is to make your experience with African cichlids exciting and positive, and I appreciate every customer who joins this journey with us.


Final Thoughts

Caring for African cichlids is both rewarding and educational. At Top Shelf Animals, we are committed to providing high-quality fish, expert advice, and premium care products to ensure your cichlids thrive.

For questions or additional support, visit www.TopShelfAnimals.com.

Happy Fish Keeping!